Saturday, October 4, 2014

Casentino nel autunno: bellissima!



We removed the plastic from the hideabed mattress and welcomed our first overnight guests  Friends from. our Dante Alighieri classes who now live in Foligno paid us a visit and we had a great time showing them around Arezzo and hearing about their Foligno adventures and what it is like to sell your house,  move to Italy, and start new jobs.  An advantage of working is the chance to meet a lot of people (not that I am complaining about not working!).  We also invited new friends whom we met here to dinner--Tom grilled salmon to perfection.  This weekend we were Mario's guests, again, as he invited us to go to Casentino in the northern part of the province of Arezzo.


Castello Poppi



Dante's bust in front of the castello.  Dante stayed in the castle during the
 Arezzo-Florence was
Tom and Mario at the castle entrance
This is one of the best castles we have ever visited.  It is in great shape and you can climb all the way up to the bell tower for great views (although it was a bit loud when the bells started ringing--we were glad it was only 4 pm, 12  rings might have caused some hearing damage.  Dante stayed in this castle and its tower  is reputed to be the inspiration for the 9 circles of hell in the Inferno.

Current castle residents



Nancy, Mario & friend at castle







The shield or scudo above the window at the castle
is the same as the one above our fireplace!





 Our next stop was another castello which unfortunately wasn't open, but had a beautiful exterior, with a lot of vines turning color.




From there it was a short trip to a 12th century pieve romao--an old roman church on top of a hill in a lovely, tranquil setting.,



Detail from church column left, St Francis
of Assisi with a pig, right

Life imitates art
St. Tom of Arezzo and a cat
On the way back to Arezzo we stopped to take in a panoramic view in Verna and tried, not too successfully, to take un photo di tramonto (sunset pix).



Thanks to our fabulous guide Supermario for another perfect day in Tuscany!


Friday, September 26, 2014

Twenty Things I Know After Our First Year of Retiring in Italy




As our one year anniversary of retiring in Italy (October 1) rapidly approaches, I was thinking about what I have learned in the past year.  Following is my top 20 in no particular order:

1. Unless it is so warm that Seattleites would be complaining about a heat wave, Italians think it is cold and wear warm jackets, scarfs, hats and gloves.

2.  A corollary to number 1:  Unless it is at least 90 degrees, Italians will ask you to shut the window on the train or bus because

3.  Italians believe that sitting in a breeze will give you a cold.
The Italians are in the warm coats and scarfs, Tom and I were wearing t-shirts!


4.    If you go out with wet hair, a nonna will scold you and tell you that you will catch a cold.

5.    Unless you are at a street market (and maybe not even then) NEVER pick up the merchandise while shopping.  Let the attendant do that for you.

6.    Never rely on an Italian website for information about bus/train schedules, opening hours, etc. because the websites are often out of date.  Example:  showing up in Torino for the 4:30 bus listed on the online schedule to be told "solemente nel'estate" (only in summer).  

7.    Grey's Anatomy is on Italian TV every night, and is actually more interesting dubbed in Italian.

8.    Italians do not wait in line.  Channel your inner Italian to elbow your way onto crowded buses, elevators, etc.  If you stand aside politely, you will never get on board.  When entering a store, bank, office--look for a machine dispensing numbers which have become very common as a solution for the anti-queuing mentality.
No lines, no numbers= chaos getting into the giostra di Saracino
9.    Italians have a different concept of personal space. In the U.S. we like a large personal space zone and don't want that invaded, but Italians are more up close and personal.   It isn't rude for an Italian to  bump someone on the sidewalk or in a store--they don't consider incidental contact a problem the way Americans do.  They walk straight at you on the sidewalk and it feels like they will mow you down,  but they will go around you if you don't move out of the way.

10.    "Italia's Got Talent" does not in any way establish the veracity of the title.  And made in Italy TV is actually worse than US tv--who would have thought it possible?

11.  Italians have opinions about U.S. government and foreign policy which they are very willing to share, and many will warm up to you if you mention how much you disliked Bush.  They know far more about the US than the average american knows about Italy.  They like Obama so you don't have to pretend to be from Canada anymore.

12.    Italians have two ways of talking:  loud and louder. Even at 2 am conversations are held full volume on the street.  And there is lots of singing.

13.    Pizza and pasta at a hole in the wall in Italy is better than the same dishes at an expensive restaurant in the US.


14.  Italians are loyal to their portion of their home town first (their contrada or quartiere) then to their town, then their area.  They generally think that their birthplace is the piu bello (most beautiful) and you should always agree whether you do or not.  The answer to "Do you like Tuscany or Umbria better" depends on whether the questioner is from Tuscany or Umbria, not on which you personally prefer.

15.  Thankfully, Starbucks will never make any inroads here.  The 1.10 euro espresso (price government regulated) at the bars all over Italy is better than Star$$s' high priced choices.

16.  The combination of US banking regulations and Italian laws make it virtually impossible for a US citizen without dual citizenship to open a bank account, but the Charles Schwab bank card allows you to withdraw enough cash without any transaction or ATM fees.

17.  Beer with pizza, wine with everything else!  But Italians generally drink only 1 glass of wine at dinner--at most 2--not the whole bottle in one sitting.




18.  When they accept you,  they will do anything and everything for you and it is great!














19.  There is always a sagra  or a festa some-where! And there will be food and wine!



And, finally,

20.  Call it a siesta and naps are not just for kids!

Can't wait to see what we learn in the next year (maybe how to fix the spacing on the blog).   I bet it will involve food and wine.

Ciao i miei amici.

Sunday, September 14, 2014

Insider's view of the Fortezza and a visit to Cortona



Our friend and locatore, Mario, figures largely in this account of the past week.  Mario works for the city and invited us along to a private tour of the fortezza, which is under renovation,with the head archaeologist.  This could also be defined as Tom's Paradiso.  Of course when renovating something in Italy, one finds ancient Roman ruins underneath and the Fortezza was no exception--they uncovered a Roman villa with mosaic floors that they did not previously know existed.  

excavation at the Foretzza above, Fortezza below



After a tough day at the archaeological site Tom wanted a hamburger.  We were worried we had lived in Italy so long we had forgotten how to make a burger, but luckily there was a recipe on the package of  hamburger buns.  Imagine our chagrin to learn we have been making the classic burger WRONG all these years by leaving off the cucumber!


On Saturday we headed to Cortona courtesy of Mario who picked us up and acted as our tour guide for the trip.  Cortona is the  beautiful hill town made famous in "Under the Tuscan Sun."   It is an old Etruscan town later taken over by the Romans and eventually a Ghibellinian city state.  Parts of the old Etruscan wall remain but most of the structures date from the medieval period.  There are 4 Etruscan tombs in the area around Cortona which unfortunately were not open on Saturday.

Apartments built on top of the etruscan wall

Visit to the Archaeological  museum




/Tom and Mario at the museum

While wandering around town we saw a little procession celebrating blood donation.




A drum player after Kelly's heart
We also visited the Duomo and a piazza with a panoramic view of the chiana valley.

at the duomo




Left:  this couple  spent 20 minutes taking selfies on the wall while Tom and Mario spent an equal amount of time taking panoramic shots.




valley view with Lake Trasimeno in the distance


The last stop was at a capucin monastery built in the traditional tuscan fashion at a site chosen by St. Francis of Assisi (whose tunic, pillow and bible are on display at the church of St. Francis in Cortona).



sunset from the monastery


To cap off a great day we headed to dinner with Mario and his family, Loretta and their two daughters Julia and Laura and our friends Giuseppe, Marissa and Pepe.


The restaurant was at the football academy.  We started off
with delicious brushetta
Cin cin.  Giusseppe, Marissa, Loretta, Julia, Laura, Mario, Nancy

The beautiful Meucci sisters


When the moon hits your eye like a big pizza pie
that's amore....

Marissa slips a treat to Pepe

and Giuseppe models Tom's new hat!

And after all that, we caught the second half of the Husky-Illinois game on tune-in radio--a great victory.  Buona notte!