Blues, Rome, Tivoli, Villa Adrianna , and Ostia Antica for a 70th birthday extravaganza

in museum at Ostia Antica

Those who know Tom will not be surprised that he picked visiting archaeological sites and listening to music for his birthday celebration.  While D.C. was digging itself out of a blizzard, we were enjoying bright sunshine in Rome and Tivoli, site of Villa d'este and Villa Adriana, Hadrian's summer palace.

This fountain has a concealed organ operated by the water, which is played several times a day

View of garden from villa d'este terrace

One of 850 km of waterways supplying the fountains

Path lined by mini fountains

Tom picking a snack inside thevilla

We stayed two nights in Tivoli, which is an ancient and charming town that has served as a week-end getaway for Romans for over 2000 years.  In addition to Villa d'este, which was formerly a convent, turned pleasure palace by Cardinal Ippolito in the 16th century, there are other historic spots (Villa Gregoriana and a castle), as well as a pretty, winding main street and some excellent restaurants where we enjoyed a fabulous lunch.


Next day, on to nearby Villa Adrianna.  We planned to take the bus, but when we asked a local to point out the bus stop, he responded "Porto io" (I'll take you). Turns out he lives in the town Villa Adrianna, and he dropped us off at the entrance to the Villa, which is a UNESCO world heritage  site.  It was Hadrian's summer palace and has over 30 buildings covering at least 250 acres. dating back to the second century.   Much of the site has still not been excavated, but there is more there than could possibly be seen in a single visit.  Although it is now in ruins, it is still possible to see the scope and grandeur of Hadrian's humble home.

One of several pools at Adrianna

Many  people visit both villas as a day trip from Rome, it is a half hour trip from Rome to Tivoli, only 2.60 euro, but that would make for a very long day.  It's great if you are short on time, but if you are in Rome for a while, make it an overnight trip and enjoy the quiet of the countryside after boisterous Rome.

After two days in Tivoli, we took the train to the Tiburtina station, in Rome, then headed to  Hotel Navona, Dimora Storico, a great bargain in the center of 'tourist' Rome.  Only 2 blocks from Piazza Navona , the Pantheon, and Campo dei Fiori, it is also walking distance to the Colosseum, the Forum, the Capitoline Museums, many churches, even Trastevere if you feel like hiking over one of the many bridges.  We explored the neighborhood on foot, seeing places we hadn't visited in previous trips such as the Doris Pahmpilj museum, which was a chance to see how the 1% lived in the 18-19th centuries, while listening to an audioguide narrated by a count who still lives in the palazzo.  The audioguide is included in the admission--definitely listen to it as it is quite entertaining.

 breakfast at the bar followed by the train to Rome--
we had to walk across the tracks to get to the train

lunch at Il Piccolo in Rome
near Piazza Navona

Bernini's Elefanto in from of
Chiesa di Maria Sopra Minerva

Who knew we would have a chance
to stop at Trinity, Kelly's old stomping grounds?

The Trevi Fountain cleaned and without
scaffolding!  But with the ubiquitous selfie
stick users.

 

Inside the Pantheon

At the Pahmphilj museum

Trevi Fountain senza selfie sticks (major cropping necessary)

To finish the trifecta of archeological visits, we headed to Ostia Antica, another short bus or train trip from Rome, you can even use the standard 1.50 bus/metro ticket.  Take the B line metro to the Pyramide stop, then use the same ticket to take the train to Ostia, a Roman port town now in ruins and 4 km from the river due to the accumulation of silt which has changed the river course.

Ostia Antica is a chance to take a look at how regular people lived.  It is not all temples and theaters--although there are temples and theaters--there are barracks, the roman equivalent of apartments, market places, and an amazing nurmber of public baths.  Not surprisingly, the largest and most opulent was reserved for men!  As with other sites, the marble, statues, and other materials were looted and/or resused, but the site is still an incredible chance to get a feel for life 2000 years ago.

4000 seat theater at Ostia 

 Tom on Via del Tom(ba)

Tom on a pedestal for his birthday

Tom adds to the 231 pictures he took on this trip

Back to town for dinner and live blues at "Big Mama's"--a great group from Naples called "I blue stuff."  Then back to Arezzo, with a last look at a frew landmarks en route.  Happy 70th birthday Tom!

Plaza del Argentina, ruins in the middle
of Rome

Common couples in Rome:  poliziotti and nuns
(although not generallywith each other!)