Christmas in Monceaux, France and a side trip to Verona

After an unexpected 2 week trip to the US, we returned just in time to head to Monceaux sur Dordogne for Chriswtmas with the Barry family at their beautiful and ancient home in the small village where Clara spent her formative years.  We rented a car and did the twelve hour drive over 2 days, stopping in Chambery overnight, where we stayed in the worst hotel I have ever booked as an adult with money (I think the 50 cent tent in Munich in 1976 was preferable)..  It had automatic check in instead of reception, and the room was so tiny there was less than a foot between the bed and the wall.  The bathroom was about the size of an airplane bathroom with an 18 inch shower added.  For those of you who may be planning to visit Chambery, do NOT stay in this place:

Premiere class hotel

However, it was a beautiful drive through the Alps, and through many tunnels including the 5th longest tunnel in Europe (maybe the world), 13 kilometers and 41 euro toll.

Just one of many peage booths--189 euros one way in tolls

When we arrived in Monceaux around noon the second day, we were met by the welcoming committee.

The village is so small they don't have house addresses.  GPS took us to the center of the village where we found Christmas decorations and a woman who could point out the way.

Volunteers decorated the village with blue and white packages

The Barry's home is a beautiful old stone house which is also a B&B, so we got a great room.  They were  wonderful hosts, preparing delicious meals (with wine and cheese of course) and taking us to see local sights, including Christmas Eve shopping in the nearby village of Argentat which has a large grocey as well as specialty shops.

Shopping for duck and  a spread made from pig noses!

The village is in a region called the Correze

Back at the house, Clara's cat Louis IVX (aka LuLu) read a book on local pig farming with Tom.

We toured a nearby village with Marie after shopping.  It was very foggy when we arrived but by the time we headed back it had cleared up.

The fog cleared up enough for a view of the bridge over the Dordogne

Luckily Tom showed up in time to hold up the arch

On Christmas Eve Valentine, Clara's sister, set the table in preparation for the feast.

We had a royal repast of duck, vegetables,. bread, cheese, and buche di noel which wasn't over until after 11 pm.  In the morning, after a Christmas breakfast, we opened gifts.  Valentine still likes Justin Bieber!

Ludovic

Mrs. Bieber

LuLu spent most of the morning in this box

Sylvain models his new shirt, direct from the USA

We also spent an after noon visiting the red village (the buildings are made from red stone, it isn't particularly communist as far as I know).  In the summer it is thronged with visitors, but there were only a few there when we visited.  We bought some walnut wine which is a regional specialty and is best served as an aperitif.

A stop on the Camino di Santiago, a pilgrimage from France to Spain

They sell "the pope's mustard' everywhere in Collonges la Rouge--apparently
the pope ate some, liked it, and history was made

After our visit to the Collonges la Rouge we visited some other villages, one with many medieval buildings and a famous church.

This church is famous for its facade.  It used to be painted bright colors but during the inquisition
the pope decided all the french churches were too gaudy and ordered the paint removed

Tom took a long walk and also visited some adjacent sights while I napped, then it was off to Verona then Chioggia.

The house

Family portrait:

The basket on the bench under the window is actually an ancient beehive.  All of the villagers used to have them.  Honey was the only available sweetener and the bees were so important they were considered part of the family.  When a family member died, the hives were draped in black.

Au revoir Monceaux!  Au revoir LuLu!

Verona

We had planned several times to visit Verona with our new friend Franca, who was born there, but events kept intervening and derailing our plans.  Since Verona was on the route home (although much closer to Chioggia than to Monceaux) we decided to stop there and see the sights.  Although famous as the fictional birthplace of Juliet, there are actually many more interesting things to see than her balcony, although reportedly 1600 Japanese tour groups stop in Verona en route to Venice just to see the balcony and accompanying hooplah.  There were mostly Italian tourists when we were there, many families with kids out of school.  It was quite busy--waiting to get in to the Arena was the first line we've encountered since arriving in October.  Following are some pictures from our day in Verona.

Entry to the old town or Centro Storico

The old Roman arena where opera is performed every summer.  The white star is advertising a special nativity display.

Made it to the top of another arena!  Thank you bionic knees.

View of the piazza from the arena

Annoying 'man baby' busking in the piazza

Lots of tourists heading to see Juliet's balcony

Piazza del Erbe with a street market in progress

"Juliet's" balcony, actually reputed to be an invention by a clever tour guide to attract more business.  Now there is also a graffitti wall, a wall to stick love notes on with chewing gum, and a 'museum of love.'  We declined to rub Juliet's right breast (a  bronze statue, get your minds out of the gutter) thus our relationship is probably doomed to end.

Piazza dei signori, also known as Piazza Dante Aligheri because of the statue in the center

Part of the tomb of the Scagleri family who owned the palazzo above and ruled Verona for many years.  They changed the law forbidding burials inside the city walls so they could be buried in the center of town.

window shopping at a highly recommended salumeria which happened to have a display of pacific salmon in the window

Church of St. Anastasia

 Generations of Veronese children have enjoyed these unusual holy water fonts in St. Anastasia

Exterior of St. Anastasia's which was never finished but is still impressive.

Footsore by this time, we headed back to the parking garage and then to the hotel in nearby Soave (famous for the wine), then home to Chioggia the next morning.